I have a 1 wire alt. so I just ran a wire frome the alternator to the positive post of the battery.
I too run a 1 wire alternator
The problem with wiring your alternator to the battery w/o a kill switch is that you will still have a hot wire and post @ your alternator, which can be an ignition source (arc flash) if something was to loosen or be damaged during an "incident"...food for thought
I have a kill switch. It was the only way I could run it with out problems I thought and still charge the battery.
If you are running a 2 post kill switch, that is the way to wire it and still have it function "OFF" correctly, but you will still have a length of wire from the alternator to the battery that is still "HOT" with the kill switch "OFF"
That is why I posted the link to a 4 post kill switch, it will not have a live wire and alternator post when "OFF" Your charge wire will run from the alternator to the separate kill switch contact points, then to the battery
The intent of the NHRA rule is to have the entire electrical system be "OFF" when the kill switch is activated.
I ran the 2 post kill switch for quite a while before I became concerned about this possible "Ignition source", but an incident @ 125MPH opened my eyes to the "What if" scenerio...like I said before "food for thought"
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/6967,247_Four-Post-Battery-Disconnect-Switch.html